Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Misconceptions and General Thoughts [Hajj]

Click here to read my last hajj-related post [from the day after arriving home]. It also links to all my other hajj trip posts. Click here to read my next post, about our travel group-- Dar el Salam.

It's been ten days since we got back, at this point, and I can't believe it's already been ten days since we got back!

Now that I have [finally] finished chronicling my days while overseas, I thought I'd continue on my posts about hajj, by doing a separate post on common misconceptions [I was quite surprised at how much wrong information was given to me] or things that surprised me while I was in Saudi Arabia... along with some general thoughts to close things up that I didn't mention yet in any of the previous posts. After this, *I think*, the only hajj-related post I have left to do is one about the program/group we traveled with-- Dar el Salam.

FYI, in case you were wondering [I was], they drive on the right side of the road in Saudi Arabia just as we do. The driver sits on the left side of the vehicle, just as it is here. And seat belts are worn by the drivers [at least by our bus driver(s)]. They just drive absolutely insanely to go with it, which is probably why they use the seat belts in the first place...

Before leaving for the trip, from the [many] stories, I thought I would have to deal with very gross and dirty eastern style bathrooms a lot. While the bathrooms weren't always clean, I didn't have to even see an eastern style bathroom until our stopover on the way back in Dubai. Score! There were eastern style bathrooms, like in the "service area" [a term I use very loosely] we stopped at along the way from Madinah to Makkah, but there were also western style bathrooms available. I think Muzdalifah was the only place to only have eastern style bathrooms available but I was able to avoid going altogether.

In fact, to be honest, the only time I faced dirty bathrooms was in the service area, as that was the only truly "public" bathroom I faced. For all the other times that we were not in a private hotel room or the Aziziya apartment [5 days in Mena and Arafat], Dar el Salam had fortunately arranged for them to be continuously cleaned as they were exclusively being used by the Dar el Salam program.

Mena camps, in general, too were described to me as less than favorable... and in all honestly: it wasn't that bad. At all. Going in, I didn't even know what to expect based on what was described by others. Ultimately I figured that when the time came, I would just deal with it... what other choice would I have anyways? Once again, however, all my worries were proven to be over nothing. I will say, however, that I know we went with a very good and reputable group and others definitely didn't have it so good.

I have said it many times: we have/had a very luxurious hajj compared to others [who come from other countries]. So the minimal pitfalls? Something has to make it feel like hajj, doesn't it? I can't count the times I wanted to remind people that this wasn't a vacation they were on.

Before leaving, some of the reading I was doing to prepare [along with some people] told me to memorize this dua and that dua for this and that. You can imagine my relief when what I thought myself turned out to be true: it needs to come from you and your heart. Make duas in your own language and make the duas you want. Repeating  a memorized dua [when you don't know what it means]... is just that: meaningless. This misconception was cleared up way before I left as I did deeper research [and reiterated by the imams in our group as well]. One of the main disturbances I faced during tawafs and both of the Sa'ee, in fact, were groups of people following behind their leader and repeating/chanting duas very loudly. Not only were they not doing themselves a favor by just blindly repeating words, but it made it hard for others [me!] to concentrate. 

Hajj is a very spiritual time between you and He above. And He knows and understands every language so speak from your heart and make it meaningful.

One more thing that everyone seems to make a big deal about: stitched items during the state of ihram for men [belts, certain sandals, etc.]. It is more about the fact that you cannot wear pieces of cloth that are sewn together to wrap your body, such as a shirt, pant or undergarments [things you would normally wear]. Just think about it: the cloth of the ihram itself is stitched... just not stitched to be a clothing item.

Another good point: during one of our lectures/Q+A sessions, someone asked a question about the validity of their tawaf or prayer without a verbal intention made. It's a product of a desi mentality coming out again... as one of the imam's reiterated, there is no reason for you to verbalize before each prayer that you are praying X amount of rakats for X namaz facing the kibla, etc. You don't need to make a verbal intention-- it's again from your heart.

A couple of other nitpicks I don't think I have discussed yet:

Independence. Prior to leaving, many [wrongly] told me that I would basically need to be around my dad to go anywhere or do anything there. Growing up in the west, we just aren't accustomed to being dependent on men.  While I did need a mehram to travel to the KSA for hajj [due to my age foremost], and numerous times at the airports it was confirmed that I had a mehram present with me [as I couldn't go for hajj at my age without a mehram]... it was not as big of an issue once we were there as I had expected. While I certainly didn't wander around too far without my dad [for safety reasons foremost], I easily explored the area on my own and went from point A to B [in close vicinity] by myself without it being an issue. Of course it helped that our hotel was less than a minute away [just around the corner] from the Masjid al-Nabawi in Madinah and similarly in Makkah our hotel led directly to the courtyard of the Haram from an internal path that housed many shops [four stories of shops in fact].

Before leaving, I was also warned about not speaking to men there as it's looked down upon and what not ... and so I naturally would let Abu do most of the talking there. I was surprised to notice, however, that wasn't the case most of the time. They were just [equally] rude to everyone! One would be asking them a question and they would just blatantly ignore it and continue doing whatever they were doing or talking amongst themselves.

What I did notice, however, was that [and I don't remember if I mentioned this in one of the previous posts already] a lot of the stores/restaurants have separate lines for males and females. Never mind the fact that it isn't followed very well and men frequently enter the women-only lines [but not vice versa! ... yet again proves women are better at following directions!]. The benefit? The women lines tended to be shorter, which meant I usually stood in line for things [ironically enough]. The negative? Being squished like sardines and fighting for your life to get to the front and ordering [for example]. Let me tell you, it's not for the weak. Attempting to get Al-Baik one day and I learned the hard way: these women are intense and shoving and pushing and whatnot is not atypical. Whatever happened to a single [and orderly] line?! Yeah, not here... there is no concept of a orderly waiting line here apparently.

They, again, had separate lines for men and women to pass through security at the Jeddah airport. Of course we were all using the same security screen to pass through and our possessions were going through the same belt... so it was a mixed thing anyways. I guess you can't say they don't try?... you know except that they don't [or at least only half-way.]

Feeling of one. It was such a neat feeling to be constantly surrounded by Muslims. Everywhere you go, especially within our hotel, you were greeted with "assalam aleikum". I have gotten so used to it, I feel like I'll continue to do it here back at home by accident initially. This trip was my first experience, memory wise, in a predominantly Muslim country-- I was a mere child when I moved Pakistan and have never gone back to visit... and it was something special for the soul indeed.

One of the things I will miss most about being in a predominantly Muslim country is the azaan (call for prayer) five times a day and the crowd from all directions rushing towards one direction-- the masjid. It's such a unique feeling and an uplifting one. Everything else just stops and just doesn't matter the second the azaan starts. I hope to be able to continue to implement that in my life back at home. For most, the regular day-to-day life makes one barely squeeze in a quick/rushed prayer, so it's amazing how different life is there.

Living in the west, where Muslims are constantly put in bad light and each wrong action of a SINGLE Muslim person is given so much emphasis... it was nice to see we are better than that. We, as an ummah, have so much potential... if only we would use it for more good to diminish the attention the bad among us receive un-deservingly. Is that a word?

Now to some other general thoughts and tips for future hajjis:

Do some research before you go. It's just always better to be a little prepared and the little tidbits of information come in handy at the most unexpected times. Also, if you are a planner/worrier like me: it gives you a peace of mind for sure.

Choose a reputable hajj group. It makes all the difference having the peace of mind and having one less thing to worry about knowing all the logistics are well taken care of. A story to prove my point: while we were there, someone I know was donating money/food [I don't remember which and it doesn't matter] to the poor/less fortunate that were outside. Approaching one, amongst a group, she remembered thinking that they didn't look they belonged there [based on what they were wearing]... and when they embarrassingly turned town the donation they told their story: they were from North America and apparently the "group" they traveled with was a fraud and just left them hanging without any accommodations or food... or anything else.

Let go and let God. Things [that are out of your control] happen. Just deal with it. Stressing out about it won't resolving it. And oh yeah: have patience. Lots and lots of patience is needed. Patience may probably be the only thing you need to take with you: everything else [that is tangible] you can find easily once you are there.

While we [North Americans for example] definitely have quite a luxurious hajj when you compare to others: remember one thing [and remind yourself often]: hajj is not a vacation. I can't tell you the number of times or the number of people I overheard complaining about frivolous things.

Lastly, I wouldn't be honest if I didn't pass this along: you really should fulfill this Pillar of Islam as early in your life as you possibly can. It's physically challenging at times, and you don't want ill health taking time away from such a tremendously blessed opportunity in your life. Make the most of this blessed invitation... who knows when [or even if] you will get to go back.

Click here to read my final hajj-related post -- what you need to pack!

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Post-Hajj

Alhumdulillah, with the grace of God, my parents and I returned from hajj Saturday [yesterday] morning.

It was, indeed, an experience/opportunity of a lifetime and I am so fortunate/thankful for the chance. And to do it with my parents was the icing on the cake.

I also want to make note of how thankful I am for the group [group 19] I was part of and I am especially thankful for a handful of people in it that became like family. I felt like I have known some of these people my whole life. Speaking of family, I can't forget my actual family that was there. Would you believe besides my parents and I, five more extended family members were also part of our 2MB program? Including my dad's sister. Plus 2 more part of our broader program. AND 2 more family members that went for hajj not in our program. Alhumdulillah.

I tried my best to write up the day's worth each night while I was away so I would have it for my record. I want to remember as much of the 21 days as I possibly can. This blog, is after all, my [very public] journal. The next few many posts will be them. As I recuperate and start feeling better, over the next few days I'll post them to be published on the actual day they correspond to, so they will be post-dated. At the end, I'll try and post all the links on one page, perhaps on this post, for convenience.

Going in, I did [a lot] of research, but no amount of research is enough-- it's the actual hands on experience that is the best teacher. And quite honestly, there is no way to describe it all and give it true justice-- you truly have to experience it.

I also want to take some time down the road and discuss the misconceptions, the lessons I learned, and just some general thoughts. I can't forget the "what you really need to pack" post I mentioned even before I left.

I can't believe we made niyat [intention] for hajj 11 months {December 2012} before leaving, and the amount of time that went into everything... and it came and went in the blink of an eye.

Updated - Post-Hajj Trip Notes:
[October 6] - Before leaving for Hajj
October 8 - Arriving in Madinah.
October 9
October 10 - Ziyarat/Mazarat tour around Madinah.
October 11 - Jummah in Madinah/Leaving for Makkah/Umrah
October 12 - Arriving in Makkah/Umrah
October 13 - First day of Hajj
October 14 - Day of Arafat
October 15
October 17
October 19
October 20
October 21
October 22 - Ziyarat/Mazarat tour around the city of Makkah
October 23
October 24 - Last full day in Makkah/Jummah at the Haram
October 25 - Leaving Makkah/Traveling [back home]
October 26 - Arriving home!
Misconceptions and General Thoughts [Hajj]
Dar el Salam [our travel group/program]
Hajj Packing List

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Hajj Trip: October 26

Posted on a later day, 11.04.13, I chose to keep the dates in mark with their corresponding dates from our Hajj trip for convenience. You can see a link of all the post-trip posts by clicking here and scrolling downClick here to see the previous day's post and then click here to see my next post on misconceptions and some general thoughts.
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Saturday October 26.

We're home. Home sweet home.

Oh, how I missed my bed.

We left Dubai about an half hour late, landed at JFK around 9:10 am (45 minutes late). All the logistics didn't take too long at the airport, but waiting for some of our luggage took forever. I was thinking it would be the customs that would be the time consuming portion. 

Side note: many people who didn't box their zam zam water at the Jeddah airport like they were advised to received the unpleasant surprise of the water leaking [through the bottle and at times even through the sealed plastic bag]. As you can imagine, the workers at the airport weren't thrilled. So all of you future hajjis' [inshallah]: have it boxed even though it's already sealed in the plastic bag!

Greeting us at the airport? My brothers, Chotti Anna, and Anjum Khala!

FYI, long flights aren't for everybody. Definitely not me. I cannot for the life of me just sit there for so long. Neither can I just fall asleep instantly like my brother Faraz. The long plane rides, both ways, were uncomfortable to say the least. Even more so on the way back since I wasn't feeling well either. It was like a coughing competition on the flight back. I may, or may not, have been one of the top contenders. Making the long plane ride back home a little more bearable: I bought wifi to keep me entertained!

By the way: my mom and I both wore a mask throughout our three weeks overseas. My dad didn't. Guess which two came back sick?!

Anyhow, before driving back home, we made a [very quick] pit-stop at my aunt's in NY to visit my maternal grandfather, Papa. I can't even describe how happy I was to see him. Just being in his presence makes me smile and make the most of every moment together. To see him this day, and to see him so well alhumdulillah was the icing on the cake. Before I left for hajj, I was upset FOR him. Praying to God for Papa from THE house of God, I can honestly say I feel more at peace than I did before I left. Like He heard me.

Everything will be okay. Everything, indeed, happens for a reason. You just have to keep faith.

New York wouldn't be New York if it didn't greet us with [a lot] of traffic. Typically I would have been very annoyed very easily, especially since I wasn't feeling well. Except I just got back from a place where a 10-15 minute bus ride often took us 4-5+ hours. For once, New York traffic didn't even phase me.

We finally got home around 12:30 PM where we were greeted to a decorated house by my brothers, Chotti Anna and Imran. How very sweet of them!

Saba chachijan made and brought lunch for us [and some food for later too!], which everyone enjoyed together. Anjum Khala sent some food home with us [when we stopped earlier to see Papa], and Chotti Anna made a lot of food too! Including fish for me! All day we had family visit before I knocked out for the night relatively early. I can't forget the flowers and mithai everyone brought!

There is no place like home... but can I go back already?

Click here to see my post-hajj post from the day after we got back home [it also includes a link to all my hajj days' posts at the bottom]. Also, click here to see my post on some misconceptions and some general thoughts.

Posted on 11.04.13

Friday, October 25, 2013

Hajj Trip: October 25

Posted on a later day, 11.03.13, I chose to keep the dates in mark with their corresponding dates from our Hajj trip for convenience. You can see a link of all the post-trip posts by clicking here and scrolling downClick here to see the previous day's post and click here to see the next day's post.
---
Friday October 25.

I finally started antibiotics last night. I just couldn't tolerate it anymore. The fever, the intense coughing, whole body ache, runny nose, throwing up, and upset stomach... I am done. Right before a full day of traveling. As you can imagine, most of the last day has involved resting as much as possible.

There is no better place to be than here, but when you are sick: all you want is the comfort of your bed.

Bright and early our luggage was, once again, picked up/taken care of... we would get it at the airport later in the day. I don't know if I have mentioned it, but Dar el Salam took care of our luggage transport from point A to B throughout the three week stay.

I bid farewell to Anna, Arshad Chachoo and Dadda around 10:30 AM as they boarded their bus for the airport. Oh how the time has flown by!

As I was sitting in the masjid waiting for jummah prayers in the Haram, I couldn't help but ponder over how blessed of a chance we were getting. Looking around, there were very few recognizable people from our program still here. Most groups from our program had left already and some even had left just an hour or so before jummah. Who knows when, or even if, we will get this chance again? If I am remembering correctly, we also left Madinah on a jummah as well. To get to pray Jummah in Madinah and Makkah in this time frame within this trip... alhumdulillah!

What a better way to leave this holy land of Makkah than immediately after jummah prayers? I couldn't think of a more ideal way to complete this trip, especially because it came as an unexpected surprise! Our original itinerary indicated we would leave in the morning for the airport! Even though I didn't understand the khutbah at all since it was in Arabic [here in Makkah and Madinah both], I am so grateful that we got to pray jummah prayers both in Masjid Al-Nabawi [in Madinah] and the Haram in Makkah here today.

The plan for us was to leave our hotel immediately after jummah, and we ended up leaving our Fairmont hotel around 1:40 pm for Jeddah airport. We could have easily left by 1:10 at the latest if it weren't for three geniuses who stayed in their hotel rooms, for whatever reason, and held us up an extra half hour-- of course all three were from our group 19. We got our passports back as well on the bus (so we didn't have to make a pit-stop to pick that up) and finally got to the Jeddah airport at around 3:20 pm (at its hajj terminal). Lucky for us, we got no traffic [for once]-- they had warned us to expect a lot of traffic! Antsy about the expected traffic and whatever else the rest of the day would entail [remember: everything goes], we were probably a little more anxious about the three men who caused us to leave later from the hotel than needed given the fact that we got to the airport with no traffic.

When we got to the "hajj terminal" at the Jeddah airport, it was something. In no way did it seem to be an airport [there was no indication it was one... except for luggage we saw everywhere]. The majority of the waiting seats were outside (in the heat). The mere minutes we spent waiting there made me thing OMG, how am I supposed to spend the next almost five hours here?! Thankfully, the yellow-shirt Dar el Salam men that I have mentioned countless times came quick enough to guide us to the entrance.

Would you believe our luggage was again waiting for us in front of the entrance where we would check in our luggage, get our boarding pass, and whatnot? I don't know how they do it, but they do it: luggage is one thing we didn't have to worry about throughout the three week stay.

While we collected our luggage through the pile, Abu [and most of the other men] went to get the zam zam water sealed in box. Dar el Salam provided us each with a 10 L bottle of zam zam [also waiting for us at the airport] that was already sealed in a plastic bag... but we had been advised from day one to have it boxed.

Next, the yellow-shirt Dar el Salam men guided us inside to a set of check-in counters, indicating these were for our Emirates flights. He could have definitely been making it up for all I know because there are no signs and every worker just seems to be all over the place. Maybe if enough people for the same airline/flight crowd onto the same counter... it becomes one for that?! Whatever works.

When we went in, it didn't even seem like an airport. It was just one room with a lot of check in counters that worked sometimes and not others (and no one monitoring weight of luggage because they probably didn't have the means to do so... at least in the hajj terminal), no belt for luggage movement (so I guess/hope/pray some of the workers manually move luggage and we get all our luggage in one piece), and workers who just jumped around from one area to the next without any means of organization. I, for one, was worried whether we would get all our luggage once we arrived home. The next room over was security that led to one small terminal that was crowded beyond belief. Add oh so many sick people (with the infamous "hajji cough") and its like a petri dish of germs.

I was born in Pakistan, but moved from there [and have never gone back] when I was a young child and this was my first experience in an environment like this. We travel within the US and Canada mostly and my brother and I went to Norway once. I know for a fact I live a very sheltered life: living in the USA, we live a very luxurious life and take so much for granted. We are accustomed to so many luxuries and "ways of life" that is definitely not the norm for most of the people in the world. This trip was about so much more than the religious/hajj aspect of it, when I think about it, it was an eye opener for so many things.

I also have to mention that, ironically enough, this hajj terminal at Jeddah airport did not have a prayer room inside. I don't know how it's even possible -- in a Muslim country... let alone in a hajj terminal. There were open prayer rooms outside  but who would possibly consider leaving only to enter through security again with this crowd? For maghrib, people crammed to pray right by the security screens. As people were praying, more people were still entering with their possessions going through the security belt... and in the process being dropped on top of people praying.. again... you can't make this stuff up.

Then we got to wait there, in this small crowded [for now being considered as an Emirates'] "hajj terminal" for a good four hours I think before being the lucky ones to be on the first shuttle to take us from the terminal waiting area/gate 14 to the actual airplane waiting in the middle of nowhere at the airport. This hajj terminal is, of course, used but once a  year [obviously during hajj season] and doesn't have the means to connect directly to such huge planes.

First stop: Dubai before the longer leg of the plane trip a couple of hours later from Dubai back home. Three something hours of a layover/plane change in Dubai, and we were on our way home finally. At last. It's about half way into the flight from Dubai to JFK when I am writing this and so far all you hear is coughing. Everywhere. Here, there, everywhere. And crying kids.

Also, one of the things I was worried about most prior to leaving was having to use an eastern style bathroom. Would you believe, this day, was the first time I even saw one?! That at Dubai airport too. No way did I use it, merely glance it, freak out, and leave.

I can't believe how quickly the three weeks flew by! Prior to leaving, I had kept on thinking that three weeks was a long time and that we should have stuck to the two week package for numerous reasons... but the days just flew by. I wish I didn't fall ill right at the end and could use that time more efficiently.

I am so glad I got to come for hajj, especially at my age, alhumdulillah. Never in a million years did I imagine I would get this chance at this stage of my life. Like I mentioned earlier, we made niyat for it last December, and it's unreal how fast it approached... and now it's over just like that. I would absolutely love to come back for umrah, in an off-peak season, to thoroughly enjoy everything about being here without all the choas, running around, and logistics that need to be taken care of during hajj. It's physically exhausting, for sure, so every able body should attempt to fulfill this pillar as early as possible and not wait until they are older.

It's been an eye opening experience, for sure, in many ways... and inshallah I never lose sight of any of it.

Click here to read the next day's post, from October 26: getting home!

Posted on 11.03.13
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